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Secure Checkout
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Air Conditioning Systems
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Frequently Asked Questions
There are thousands of questions available for you to search, and many have already been asked. Please search our database, to see if what you need is already there for you! Thank you for visiting, and if you don't see what you need, please click on the Ask a Question Link above, and a representative will contact you shortly.
do u sell an alignment toolfor a 2003 f-150 4.2 let me know.
Right now, we do not. Sorry.
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Can I run my car without a thermostat?
Basically, when a cold engine is started the thermostat is closed, bypassing all or most of the coolant flow back to the engine rather than to the radiator. As the engine runs, the coolant temperature rises until it gets near the temperature of the thermostat rating, for example, 190 degrees F. At that point the thermostat begins to open, sending some coolant to the radiator. If the coolant temperature continues to rise, the thermostat opens further, in an effort to keep the coolant temperature near the thermostat rating. If engine power is reduced, let's say to idle, and the coolant temperature falls below the thermostat rating, then the thermostat closes enough to maintain the temperature near the thermostat rating. If power is increased to full power, the thermostat opens until it is wide open, and on a warm day, the coolant temperature may rise well above the thermostat rating. The coolant temperature will continue to rise until it reaches a temperature at which the difference between the radiator average core temperature and the incoming cooling air is great enough to transfer the entire heat load to the air. This then becomes a steady state condition. Changing the thermostat to one with a higher temperature rating won't have any measurable effect at full power and high ambient temperature conditions, since any thermostat will be wide open under those conditions. Running without a thermostat in competition may be some benefit due to slightly increased water flow. But running without a thermostat on the street is a bad idea because the engine will run much too cool for efficient operation.
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Why are your 2-row radiator cores supposed to be better than a 3-row core?
Most of us have learned to equate more rows with better cooling, so we question how the number of rows can be reduced and still end up with the same, or even better, cooling. The answer to that lies in the increased length of fin contact of the 2-row X core over the 3-row HE core. The length of the tube flat, in the direction of cooling airflow, on the 1/2-inch tubes used in the X core is 0.435 inches. Since there are two tubes in the core depth, the length of fin contact for each fin convolution is 2 x 0.435 = 0.870 inches. In contrast, the length of the tube flat on the 3/8-inch tubes used in the HE core is only 0.288 inches. Since there are three tubes in the core depth, the length of fin contact for each fin convolution is 3 x 0.288 = 0.864 inches, slightly less than for the X core. So the X core, with 0.870 inches of fin contact in a 2-row, 1 1/4 inch core depth, has slightly better heat transfer performance than the HE core with 0.864 inches of fin contact in a 3-row, 1 1/2 inch core depth. This has, incidentally, been confirmed by comparative wind tunnel tests.
In the example given above, the HE core and the X core have the same fin height, same tube spacing and same fin count. When comparing the heat transfer performance of the X core to standard cores such as the S core, which has a greater fin height and tube spacing but a lower fin count (10 fpi for the S core versus 20 fpi for the X core), the 2-row X core is far superior to the 3-row S core. Obviously, the greatly increased fin count accounts for most of this, but the lower fin height of the X core also helps because there is a shorter distance to the center of the fin than in the S core. The highest temperature differential between the temperature of the fin and the temperature of the cooling air is right where the fin attaches to the tube. This temperature differential decreases as distance from the tube increases. Therefore, the temperature at the center of the fin, between two tubes, will be higher, and therefore provide higher heat transfer, for a low fin height core than for a high fin height core.
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Do I need to disconnect the battery before replacing my radiator?
Airbag sensors are often located at or near the radiator position. As a result, some vehicle manufacturers require that the airbag system be disarmed prior to performing any radiator removal work, in order to avoid accidental deployment of the airbags, which could cause serious injury. Always consult the vehicle manufacturer's maintenance and repair shop manual or other vehicle specific repair manuals to determine if it is necessary to disarm the airbag system before proceeding with radiator removal. In any case, always detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery before proceeding. Tape the cable end to prevent accidental contact with the battery terminal during the repair work.
NOTE: The radios of some vehicles will not operate after power has been disconnected unless an owner's code is entered. Be sure the code is available before disconnecting the battery cable.
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My car is still overheating after installing a new radiator. What could cause this?
Every Proliance Ready-Rad® replacement radiator has thermal performance equal to or better than original equipment. Therefore, if overheating occurs, it's likely to be caused by one of these overheating gremlins. Before checking these out, observe the following CAUTIONS. CAUTIONS!! Temperatures in modern engine cooling systems can be well over 200 F. Persons working around engine cooling systems should be cautioned to avoid scalding by allowing the engine and cooling system to cool before removing the radiator cap or working around cooling system components. They should also be cautioned to beware of electric fans, which can start running without warning even after the engine has been shut off. Safety glasses should be worn when working on any cooling system. Finally, it should be warned that engine coolants are poisonous, regardless of type. Used coolants should be collected and disposed of according to local ordinances. Coolants must not be allowed to collect in open pans or puddles where animals or children can drink them, as they can cause death if not immediately treated.
1. FAULTY TEMPERATURE GAGE OR SENSOR-- When the gage indicates overheating, are there any other signs of overheating, such as excessive heat, steaming or boiling over? Has the engine been pinging, or knocking, as a result of detonating the fuel due to overheating? Has the engine been dieseling, or running on after the ignition is shut off, due to overheating? If not, the sensor or gage may be faulty and should be checked out. The temperature shown on a thermometer inserted through the radiator filler neck into the coolant after the thermostat has opened should agree fairly closely with that shown on the coolant temperature gage.
2. THERMOSTAT STUCK CLOSED--A stuck thermostat can be detected by starting the engine, allowing it to run, and feeling the radiator inlet hose, which should get hot as the thermostat opens. If it does not, the thermostat is not opening. The temperature at which the thermostat opens can be checked with a thermometer inserted into the coolant through the radiator filler neck. When the thermostat opens, the coolant level in the radiator will drop and the inlet radiator hose will begin to get hot. The temperature of the coolant entering the radiator should be close to or the same as the temperature rating of the thermostat. If there is a big difference, the thermostat should be replaced.
3. COLLAPSED OUTLET HOSE--Cooling system hoses deteriorate with age. If they become soft, they can collapse, especially on the radiator outlet side, which is the water pump suction side. If the hose even partially collapses during operation, coolant flow will be reduced, resulting in overheating. Hoses should be inspected for soft spots, collapsed sections or cracks, which can lead to leaking.
4. FAULTY WATER PUMP-- Many overheating conditions are caused by a damaged or loose impeller within the water pump housing. The pump shaft should be checked for leakage or excessive play where it exits the pump housing. Either of these conditions is a sign of water pump wear. Such wear inside the pump may result in low coolant flow rates and overheating.
5. LOW COOLING AIR FLOW-- A radiator needs cooling air to be effective. If the radiator is blocked by debris or by a piece of cardboard which was inserted to protect its face during installation, or by a license plate covering most of the grille opening, overheating will result. Likewise, if no cooling air reaches the radiator because the electric fans were disconnected during installation or reconnected in reverse, overheating will result. If the fan thermostatic switch is defective and does not activate the fan when coolant temperature rises, overheating will result. All of these items are easily checked. If the fan is not coming on during the overheating event, something is obviously amiss. For mechanically driven fans, a thermostatic fan clutch could be the culprit, or a loose and slipping fan belt.
6. LOW COOLANT LEVEL-- Very low coolant levels will result in overheating. The coolant level should be checked to be at the level specified in the vehicle owner's manual. For GM vehicles using Dex-cool coolant, many GM dealers are recommending filling to the "HOT" level when the system is cold, in order to fully assure that the system is full. Some Dex-cool systems can allow air to enter the cooling system if they are not kept absolutely full. Such air reacts with the Dex-cool to form a sludge, which can result in blocking of radiator and heater passages, resulting in overheating.
7. BLOCKED EXHAUST GAS-- The energy in the fuel burned in a gasoline engine goes roughly 1/3 to useful work to move the vehicle, 1/3 to waste heat out the exhaust pipe, and 1/3 to heat removed by the engine cooling system. If the exhaust system becomes partially blocked, perhaps by a faulty or collapsed muffler or catalytic converter, then less heat escapes with the exhaust, resulting in more heat to the cooling system, and possible overheating. The vehicle exhaust should be checked for free flow.
8. RECIRCULATED EXHAUST GAS-- Modern vehicles utilize some form of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) as a means of limiting emissions. If the EGR valve is faulty and re-circulated exhaust gas is excessive, it will contribute to overheating. Any other condition, which can introduce exhaust gas into the combustion air, such as by a faulty heat riser, can also lead to overheating.
9. CLOGGED RADIATOR TUBES--It's important to determine if the customer has properly drained the cooling system, flushed it with fresh water, and refilled the system with the proper fresh new antifreeze coolant mixture as specified by the vehicle manufacturer. If he did not, there is a good chance that unclean or improper antifreeze is partially clogging the radiator tubes. An infrared thermometer may be used to scan the face of the radiator to look for cool spots, which will indicate a clogged area. The only cure for this clogging is draining the system, back-flushing the radiator, flushing the system with clean water and refilling with the proper coolant.
10. UNUSUAL OPERATING CONDITIONS-- If the overheating condition only occurs during unusual operating conditions, such as towing a heavy trailer, which could be the problem. Towing with automatic transmissions results in high transmission oil temperatures, which must be cooled by the transmission oil cooler in the radiator outlet tank. This higher heat load can lead to overheating. Such towing usually requires an additional oil cooler to prevent overheating. Increased heat loads caused by "souping up" the engine with various aftermarket add-ons, resulting in higher horsepower, will result in overheating at high power. Added engine horsepower must be balanced by higher cooling system capacity.
Other, less likely, things that can cause overheating include a slipping or broken fan belt, a slipping fan clutch, a defective radiator cap, an engine whose timing is way off, dragging brakes and a blown head gasket.
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What should I do if I see a pet drinking antifreeze?
Ethylene glycol coolants are extremely poisonous. Do not allow coolant to sit around uncovered, as it actually tastes good to animals. Within 24 hours after it is swallowed, ethylene glycol will reach the kidneys, where it crystallizes and shuts down the kidney function, resulting in a slow and very painful death. If you see an animal drinking ethylene glycol, rush it to a veterinarian, who will administer intravenous injections of ethyl alcohol over several days. The alcohol competes with the ethylene glycol for metabolism in the kidneys, with the result that the glycol is eliminated in the urine before it has a chance to crystallize, and the animal has a few pleasant days and survives with little more than a bad hangover. Of course, there's a similar danger for humans, particularly young children. All of this is why you should never allow antifreeze coolant to sit around uncovered. Always dispose of used coolants in accordance with government regulations.
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What causes electrolysis damage to radiators?
Electrolysis damage to radiators results from improper grounding of electrical equipment in the vehicle, usually add-on equipment. When such equipment is not properly grounded, stray electrical current from the equipment may find its way to ground through the electrolyte (coolant) in the radiator. The result can be pitting of the radiator metal parts where they are grounded. When electrolysis is suspected, radiator shops are prepared to test for stray currents and, by selectively activating various electrical equipment, to isolate the cause of the trouble. The addition of proper grounding will usually cure the problem.
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What makes a better radiator, aluminum or copper/brass?
Brazed aluminum radiators are made entirely of aluminum and are therefore much stronger than copper/brass designs, in which the copper fins are joined to the brass tubes, and brass tubes are joined to the brass header plate, by weaker solder. As a result, brazed aluminum radiator cores are much more durable than copper/brass cores, being better able to stand up to the rigors of internal pressure, exterior corrosion and vehicle shock and vibration, which are often the causes of copper/brass radiator leaks. While it is true that copper is a better conductor of heat than aluminum, the copper/brass radiator is not made entirely of copper. Heat from the coolant must travel through brass tube walls, then through solder bonding, and finally, through the copper fins to the cooling air. In contrast, a brazed aluminum radiator is aluminum throughout. Most importantly, aluminum radiators typically use wider, more efficient tubes than can be made in copper/brass, and fin gauges are typically thicker, resulting in overall better heat transfer performance.
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What's the best way to fill the cooling system to make sure it is full?
To fill your cooling system, follow the steps below.
Refer to your owner's manual to identify the proper coolant to be used in your vehicle and to determine the cooling system capacity. For best results, install an amount of fresh full-strength coolant concentrate, of the type specified by the vehicle manufacturer, equal to half of the cooling system capacity. Then continue to fill the system with distilled, de-ionized or de-mineralized water until full. Commercially available premixed solutions of the specified coolant may also be used, without water.
* The manufacturers of some vehicles recommend that the front end of the vehicle be raised during the filling process (to raise the fill point higher than the heater core) in order to assure that the system becomes full. Consult your vehicle owner's manual to determine if this is required. With the vehicle in the same position (front end raised, if required), start the engine to circulate the coolant and set the heater controls to high heat. *After the engine has idled long enough to open the thermostat, the radiator inlet hose will begin to feel warm, then hot. As the coolant level goes down, add more distilled, deionized or demineralized water to keep full. If a premixed solution was used to fill the system, add more premix. When the coolant level has stabilized at just below the radiator filler neck, replace the radiator cap. Fill the coolant recovery bottle to the FULL mark with a 50/50 solution of the recommended coolant concentrate and distilled, deionized or demineralized water, or with premixed coolant. * Check the system for leaks. With the engine still idling, check the automatic transmission fluid level and add fluid if required. *Drive the vehicle for a few miles, then stop and allow the engine and coolant to cool completely. When the radiator has cooled, remove the pressure cap and check the coolant level. Add distilled, deionized or demineralized water or premix as required to top off the system. Check that the coolant recovery bottle is full to the FULL mark. If required, add a 50/50 solution of the coolant concentrate specified by the vehicle manufacturer and distilled, deionized or demineralized water, or add the specified premixed coolant, to bring the level to the FULL mark. *Check the coolant recovery bottle the next few times you drive the vehicle, and, if necessary, add enough coolant mix to bring it up to the FULL mark.
What makes a better radiator, aluminum or copper/brass?
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How do I flush my cooling system?
After reading the CAUTIONS, follow the steps below.
CAUTION: NEVER REMOVE THE PRESSURE CAP WHILE THE ENGINE AND COOLANT ARE STILL HOT. ONCE THE ENGINE HAS COOLED, REMOVE THE CAP SLOWLY !!
CAUTION: Used coolant can be corrosive and contain debris, which will shorten the life of a replacement radiator. Always completely drain and flush the entire cooling system, including engine block, heater and hoses before installing new coolant.
CAUTION: To avoid burning or scalding, always allow the coolant and radiator to cool completely before draining the cooling system.
DRAINING THE SYSTEM: Drain the coolant from the system through the radiator drain cock, if so equipped, or by disconnecting the bottom (coolant outlet) hose from the radiator.
CAUTION: Ethylene glycol coolants are extremely poisonous. Do not allow coolant to sit around uncovered. Drinking even small amounts of ethylene glycol can result in severe kidney injury and death. Dispose of used coolant in accordance with government disposal regulations.
* Flushing of the cooling system should be done in accordance with the vehicle manufacturer's recommendations, which may be found in the manufacturer's repair and maintenance manuals and technical service bulletins. Alternatively, to flush the cooling system, begin by filling the system with clear, drinkable water and continue by following the instructions below. * Set the heater controls to high heat and run the engine until the thermostat opens. The manufacturers of some vehicles recommend that the front end of the vehicle be raised during the flushing process (to raise the fill point higher than the heater core) in order to assure complete flushing. Consult your vehicle owner's manual or shop manual to determine if this is required. * After the engine has idled long enough to open the thermostat, the radiator inlet hose will begin to feel warm, then hot. As the coolant level goes down, add more water until the level stabilizes at just below the radiator filler neck, indicating that the system is full. * Shut off the engine, allow engine and coolant to cool, and drain the system. * Refill the system, run the engine and drain the system as in steps 1 through 4 above, two more times to totally remove old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear. * If necessary, remove any water or coolant left in the coolant recovery bottle using a siphon or squeeze-bulb coolant tester.
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How often should I change my antifreeze?
Antifreeze should be changed every two years or 30,000 miles. All antifreeze coolants have two major components. One is the antifreeze solution-usually ethylene glycol mixed with water-which will provide antifreeze protection virtually forever. The other component includes the corrosion inhibitors and water pump lubricants. These deplete with time and need to be replaced. In addition, the products of corrosion that accumulate in the cooling system should be flushed out periodically to prolong the life of cooling system components. It has been found that, for best results, even the so-called long-life or extended life coolants should be changed as recommended above.
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What kind of antifreeze should I use in my vehicle's engine cooling system?
Antifreeze is available as a coolant concentrate, which is to be mixed 50/50 with water, or as a premixed coolant. In refilling your cooling system, always use the exact coolant concentrate type or premixed coolant type specified by the vehicle manufacturer in the vehicle owner's manual. Never mix traditional "green" coolants with the newer red, yellow, orange, etc. coolants and vice versa. Never use tap water to mix with coolant concentrate. Always use distilled, de-ionized or de-mineralized water, mixed with the manufacturer-specified coolant concentrate, or use the manufacturer-specified premixed coolant.
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My A/C clutch is making a loud clicking or rattle noise can the clutch be replaced without replacing the compressor?
It is possible, and there may or may not be an aftermarket clutch available for your vehicle, depending on what the make and model is.
That said, we do not sell the clutches by themselves, only complete compressors.
Thank you for your question.
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KIA sophia 2001 AC clutch squeals badly when cold, does that mean the compresor has to be changed???
It is highly possible that your compressor has locked up... these have a tendency to go bad.
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I would like to know if the part # 21110 ( A/C compresor)comes with clutch. Also, how much it would be to be shipped to my address. thanks
Yes it does. What is your zip code?
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I'm looking for an a/c evaporator for a 1970 dodge charger r/t. Do you have one or know where I can find one?
Received your phone call, and unfortunately after doing some more searching, we did not yet come up with anything. Good luck on that Charger Evap; COOL CAR!
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Do you stock new ac compressors for a 1992 imperial chyrsler 3.8 engine if so please advise price & manufacture.
Thanks
Unfortunately, we do not currently stock one. Thank you!
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Just the compressor is $700.00. The repair shop said they could replace the bearings cheaper if we wanted to do that, but did not know how long that would last. The Van is 2002 and has 125,000 mileage on it. Would replacing the bearing in the compressor include that clutch bearing or is that separate?
Yes, that is the clutch bearing. The only problem with that, is that since the compressor has over 100k miles, you may end up with a bad compressor in the future, and need to at that point replace it. In this case, you will end up paying for two repair jobs. However, you could chance it and have the shop replace just the bearing; it may work out well for you or it may not. Thanks!
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My 2002 Honda Odyssey is making a whiney noise and more so when I give it gas. The repair shop said it was my air compressor. My air works fine, would that not be affected if the compessor has gone bad? They said the bearings were bad in the compessor. They also said a new compressor was $700.00. Does this make sense to you?
Was the compressor part itself $700 or the entire Job? Many shops charge quite a bit for their parts. They may not be able to buy it as cheap as I can sell it to you. If we do business, please mention our website to your repair shop!
The a/c could still work when the bearings are going bad, as the clutch bearing is separate from the refrigerant system. With that said, once that clutch bearing does go out, you could end up stranded, so I would recommend replacing the compressor if you trust your repair shop. You may also wish to get a second opinion, just to ease your mind. As I cannot diagnose a whiney nose over the internet, I won't say for sure, but if you have been to a good shop, I doubt they would be intentionally trying to cheat you.
Thanks for your question!
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DO YOU JUST SELL THE AC CLUTCH FOR A 2002 NISSAN SENTRA GXE 1.8L.
No, we do not; sorry. We do carry the complete compressor though.
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I need an air compressor for my 1998 pontiac grand am. Do you have them and if you do whats the price???
Yes we do; everything you need is in our online catalog lookup on the homepage. If you are having trouble navigating it, please let us know and we'll help you in any way possible.
Thanks!
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Do you give free shiping on a/c compressors.
No. Our compressors are competitively priced at wholesale levels and we therefore cannot offer free shipping. You can calculate your low shipping costs upon checkout.
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we are supplying the Automobile parts,mainly for the heating and air conditioning parts for many years, with very good qualitity and price. such as compressor, condenser,evaporator, intercooler, oilcooler, radiator, expansion valve, pressure switch, drier...please see: www.allproda.com or contact at: apd.autoacparts@yahoo.com.cn for more informaton. Have a good day.!
Thank you for the update!
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Iam interested in buying a ac comppresor for a
1994 ford f150 4.9 liter gas engine. I want to make sure the
one Iam looking at is the right one for this truck.
The part number you have listed is 17608
I would appreciate making sure this is the right one
My telephone number is 7246434680 or e-mail me Thank You
You are correct!
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Hello,
Could you please tell me if you would have a body gasket for an air conditioning compressor? The compressor is a 2388 Ready Aire and I'm hoping it is a common size. It's for a 1997 Saturn SL. Thank you very much,
Jerry Hughes
We do not offer any body gaskets at this moment.
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What is the brand name on a new a/c compressor for a 1992 Imperial Chyrsler 38 engine also price quote expansion valve,& drier
This compressor would be rebuilt/ remanufactured only. Therefore, it is an original OEM compressor that is to be rebuilt. Further, Part numbers for your vehicle:
19043: $27.95
21609: $137.50
8333550: $26.64
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how to replace air compressor and water pump in Nissan sentra 95
For the a/c compressor, you must evacuate the system, pull the lines off the compressor, pull the compressor off, replace the drier and expansion valve, replace the compressor, add oil, pump down the system, and re-charge. If you are unsure as to how to do this properly, it would probably be best to have a reputable service shop do the job for you.
Thanks!
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I believe I need a new air conditioning compressor for my 2001 honda Odyssey. My question is does your compressor include a new or reconditioned clutch assembly and do I need to return the core. Thank you Charlie
The clutches are reconditioned, and insured to function properly prior to shipping. All compressors are thoroughly tested prior to the sale. No need to return the core. Thanks!
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Where do I find the orifice tube on a 1995 Buick Century
The orifice tube will be in one of the following places, all of which you need to open up to do a compressor job properly:
Outlet of the Condenser, in the Evaporator tube, or in the Liquid line
Thanks!
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I AM INTERESTED IN BUYING A COMPRESSOR, EXPANSION VALVE, DRYER FOR MY 1999 CHEVEY SILVERADO 4.8L. I HAVE A COUPLE OF QUESTIONS. DO ALL THE ABOVE COMPONENTS COME WITH NEW O-RINGS, OR DO I HAVE TO BUY THEM SEPARATLY? ALSO THE COMPRESSOR THATS IN THE TRUCK ONLY HAS A LEAKING FRONT SEAL..DO I REALLY HAVE TO FLUSH THE SYSTEM TO KEEP THE ONE YEAR WARRANTY. I AM NOT A FAN OF FLUSHING A SYSTEM FOR ON REASON. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP.
Typically, if the system is functioning properly, it might not need to be flushed. However, you still need to replace your accumulator and orifice tube. Further, if there is any contaminants in the original orifice tube, you should consider flushing the system. Some of our compressors come without oil, so you may wish to also purchase the o-ring seal kit to save yourself some trouble.
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wHATS THE WARRENTY ON THE AC EVAPORATOR?.....IS THIS THE ONE FOR MY DODGE DURANGO,4.7 ENGINE , NUMBER EV206128PF,,IF THIS THE WRONG ONE CAN I SEND IT BACK,WILL I GET THE MONEY BACK?,,,HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE AND HOW MUCH THE SHIPPING?
One year warranty and as long as the part is not damaged, installed, and is in resellable condition, you may return it for a refund of the part price only, less shipping. Shipping takes usually three days or less depending on your location.
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I am in need of someone that can replace the old rubber hoses on my a/c manifold. Requires removal of existing rubber hoses which are in between the manifold parts, they are secure with pressure fittings.
At the moment, we do not rebuild a/c lines.
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Thanks for that answer. Really appreciate it. One other thing, how much Freon do I add and is there a certain kind or are they all universal.
You need to calculate your refrigerant based upon your individual vehicle. Each is different, and the amount of refrigerant to add can be found under the hood of your car.
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I need to replace the A/C compressor on my 2003 Vue. I found the compressor and receiver/dreyer on your site, but couln't find the expansion device. Am I required to change this part to maintain the warrantee? Do you offer this expansion device?
At the moment, that expansion valve would have to come from the dealer; sorry!
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Hello,
I was just wondering about the Rebuilt AC compressor for the 98 Chevy Prism would it be possible for me to come to your store and pick it up or does it have to be mailed?
Local pickup is always welcome!
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HELLO! HOW MUCH DOES IT COST TO INSTALL AN A/C COMPRESSOR IN A 1994 SILVERADO TRUCK
It depends on which repair shop you take your truck to; each would probably price it differently. However, the labor for the entire job should be less than $300.
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how do I set up an dealer account
Simply e-mail or call us. We'll be happy to set you up!
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need air compressor w/clutch part number MSC90C
also a/c expansion valve, a/c reciever drier,a/c condensor
for a 1998 dodge avenger 6 cyclinder ( gas )
once I fine out the total amount of items I would like to send you a money order for the amount. Don't want to used my credit card. Will send you the Money order first and den you can send me the parts.
Money Orders are fine.
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I'm looking at the 10623N a/c compressor and it says "Missing 11 O'Clock Ear." What does that mean?
From the factory, this compressor came without that particcular ear... It's meant to be that way.
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Part # 30511 is this a 5 groove or a 4 groove? Is there a warranty with this compressor?
| Manufacturer: AC Parts House |
| Remanufactured Compressor |
| Sanden TRF090 - 5 Groove Clutch 4.85" Diameter, 2.50" Gauge Line - 15-20997 |
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| One year warranty on all parts
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I'm looking for a AC evaporator unit with housing for a 1994 Caddilac SLS.
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I have a 1995 Volkswagen Jetta and was wondering if the item CP3009 includes all the seals needed to rebuild the compressor as well?
No. This is not a kit to rebuild the compressor, but is a kit for the sealing washers and o-rings for the system.
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WILL YOU ACCEPT DISCOVER CARD.? I WOULD LIKE TO BUY AN AC COMPRESSOR .PART # 21405. THANK YOU.
Sorry, at the moment we do not accept Discover; Visa, Mastercard, and Amex only.
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I want to buy Part Number #14020 , but I do not want to have to go throught he checkout proces to find out how much shipping is to zip code 98367. Please tell me that and then I can order. Thanks!
The Checkout process is very quick and efficient... probably will take less than two minutes of your time!
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Do your compressors come with oil?
Most all of our New compressors come with oil.
Most all of our Remanufactured compressors come without oil.
It's always wise to check any compressor to see if it has oil prior to installing it.
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Do you charge shipping?
Yes we will charge you for actual UPS shipping rates.
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I ordered a compressor from AC Partshouse few months ago, 12685N - 1987 - 1992 Chevrolet ~ GMC ~ Oldsmobile. I alos ordered the oil, P150D - PAG 150 Refrigerant Oil . How much oil do I put in this compressor?
The system capacity is 8 oz of oil for that vehicle, which conveniently is the same amount of oil in the bottles we sell!
Thanks for your interest!
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Dear Officer We are the top 3 OEM on compressor in China.The products cover V5, SP and 10PA15 and we introduced the technology from Delphi. We have good business business with some big dealers in U.S.A. If possible we will appreciate future cooperation with you. Your quick response will be highly appreciated. Best regards
Thank you for the update. How would you like to proceed?
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Are the AC compressors already charged with oil? I need this part: Item Description : 1994 - 2002 Dodge Truck Part #30727 Remanufactured Compressor $164.77
Remanufactured compressors come without oil.
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I just want to verift that Part number 17553 includes the compressor with the clutch and it is the correct part for a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with a 2.4L 4 Cyl engine. Please advise. Thanks. Matt Herms
That is correct!
Thank you for your inquiry.
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How much is shipping and handling charges
All Shipping charges are based on your location. We charge actual shipping
charges.
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Can I buy a A/C compressor, or just the CLUTCH for the compressor from you, if I'm just a end-user, and not a reseller or "jobber"?? If so, I need one for my 2004 Ford Taurus SEL a.s.a.p. Thanks, John
Yes, we sell to everyone. Thanks!
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Does the air conditioner compressor part no. 50103 include the clutch assembly? Is the clutch assembly available by itself? Other than the oil, what other parts are necessary to complete the compressor replacement job?
Yes, all compressors come with clutch and we do not offer the clutches by themselves. With any compressor job, you will need to replace the drier and expansion device.
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what brand are your new a/c compressers? what is the warrenty? do they come with a clutch.... complete? what is the shipping charge? or do you have to check out to find out?
Many of our compressors are different brands, depending on which type of part it is. They all come with clutch and the shipping charge depends on your location.
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Im looking to replace my air conditioning system and I would like to know how much for the kit.
I am not sure of your exact question, but we do not sell complete kits for the entire a/c system. Which parts exactly do you need?
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Do you all have an A/C Compressor for a 1997 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2 engine? The A/C Compressor I need is Type=Dkv14d. Please reply ASAP. Thank you
Yes we do; It is on our website, and available through the catalog search function. Did you search for it?
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friends: Where can one find/purchase a rebuild kit (O-rings, gaskets, etc.) for the compressor used in all Saturn "S" type cars years 94 thru 98. thanks, mike in central florida
We do not sell a rebuild kit for the Saturn Compressors. Sorry!
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I found this part on your site and want to make sure you still have it in stock and that it indeed fits my car, Nissan 93 NX 1600. Manufacturer: AC Parts House Remanufactured Compressor Zexel DKV14D - 4 Groove Clutch 5.25" Diameter, 1.75" Gauge Line - Direct Mount (4 Boss) - 92600-64Y00, 92600-64Y21 Thanks, Bob
Yes, in stock.
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Thank You!
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Thank you! We like it!
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i never changed a evaperatoa coil on a dodge stratis2001 is it difficult where is it located under the dash and is there any short cuts best regards roger menard
I believe you have to pull the dash on that vehicle. Doing so, you would drop the dash, and pull out the evaporator case from the firewall. From there, you would need to open the case and pull out the evaporator from there. It may be a little difficult for the newbie mechanic.
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96 chevrolet c1500 air conditioner compressor constantly cycling fully charged no cooling bypass pressure switch it cools?
It sounds like your clutch cycling switch on the accumulator is bad.
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I have a 2003 Honda Pilot with only 45K. I took it to my local honda dealership today because I noticed that the A/C was not working on a recent warm day. Much to my dismay I was told that it needs a new compressor(1100.00 worth of parts). These are the parts noted on their estimate: 5930144 Compressor 38810-P8F-A01 5963368 Stator SE 38924-P8F-A01 5963343 Clutch SE 38900-P8F-A01 I see that you have a compressor listed for approx 195.00. Does it include the additional items noted above and if not would you have those parts as well? Are your parts guaranteed to perform and if so how long? Thanks and I look very forward to hearing back from you! Pam
The compressor we list is just the compressor w/ clutch. You should also look into replacing your drier and expansion valve to do the job properly.
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I need the a/c blower motor for my 1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse with the 1.8 L engine. It is located under the dash on the passenger side of the vehicle. Thank you.
We currently do not offer a blower motor for your vehicle; sorry.
Thanks!
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Hello, Your air conditioner "New Receiver Drier Hose Assembly Part # 8433716" is that the canister and hose assembly? And could you please tell me what the shipping would be on that item to San Diego, Ca. 92103? Thank you very much. Jerry Hughes
You can find an exact shipping charge by going 3/4 through checkout.
Thanks!
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I looked up an AC compressor and the only one available was refurbished. I am wondering if there is any kind of warranty on it. Thanks, Cris.
All of our parts come with a one year warranty (certain conditions apply).
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My compressor will not turn or or engage when I turn on my a/c system. Why?
There are several reasons why the A/C compressor will not engage when you turn the A/C system on.
To diagnose the problem, you have to start with a few basic checks of the system. Typically, the most common problem is that the system is low on refrigerant. The low refrigerant charge results in lower system pressures. Therefore, the safety switches built into the system have detected this, and have stopped the compressor from operating. It’s important to have these safety switches because leaving your A/C compressor to operate with a low charge could lead to catastrophic failure and result in costly repair.
To best understand this, you must consider what’s happening in your A/C system when it’s operating normally. Under normal conditions, the refrigerant flowing through the system carries the oil that lubricates your A/C compressor. When the refrigerant charge is low, the proper oil is not being circulated. Continued operation of the compressor without proper lubrication will result in a failure. In addition to that, it’s also important to remember that the refrigerant that cools the vehicle also cools the compressor. Consider how long your car’s engine would run without cooling. The same principles apply to your A/C system’s compressor. Operating the system with a low charge of refrigerant is, in fact, removing the cooling and the lubrication from your A/C compressor. Therefore, the safety switches play an important role in protecting your compressor.
There are other problems besides low refrigerant charge that can prevent your A/C compressor from engaging, and they too should be checked. Some of the more common problems are: Improper clutch air gap: The clutch engages to turn the compressor when the coil creates a magnetic field. That magnetic field ‘pulls’ the clutch hub into the pulley and causes the compressor to turn. If the air gap is too great (more than .025"), the clutch hub could be too far away to be ‘pulled’ by the magnetic field. A simple adjustment of the clutch air gap will eliminate that problem. Clutch wiring circuit or failed coil: The clutch coil created the magnetic field to ‘pull’ or engage the clutch hub. A failed coil will not create the magnetic field. The coil can easily be checked with an ohm meter. Additionally, relays or wiring circuits for the clutch coil can also be at fault. Typically you will require a wiring diagram of that circuit in order to troubleshoot it.
Compressor Belt and Belt Tension: Currently every A/C compressor is belt driven. (With hybrid vehicles, that could change) Check that the belt is in place and be sure that it’s at proper tension. Loose belts could cause them to slip. That means the compressor could be engaging but the belt can not handle the added load, therefore not turning the compressor.
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Freon has been added to my system, but it's not cooling. With freon added, why does it not cool?
There are several reasons why just adding refrigerant or freon to your car’s A/C system hasn’t caused it to start blowing cold air.
In fact, one of the reasons could very well be the way the refrigerant was added. Whenever adding refrigerant, it’s important to be sure that all the air is ‘purged’ from the hoses. If the air was not purged properly, the system could have become contaminated with air. Once that happens, the high side pressures typically rise and the refrigerant is not being properly cooled in the condenser. The air is actually preventing the A/C system from cooling properly.
However, there are also several other reasons why the A/C system may not be cooling. To start, the most obvious possibilities should be checked first. Is the compressor engaging? Is the belt in place and tight? A fully charged A/C system can cause loose belts to slip and burn but may not turn the compressor. If the compressor clutch is not engaging, you will have to determine why.
Start by checking for voltage at the compressor coil. In order to function properly, there should be full battery voltage at the compressor. A reduction in voltage could mean that the magnetic field being created by the coil (to engage the clutch) is not strong enough. Compressor clutch gap could also be a common problem. The air gap (as it’s normally referred to) is the space between the clutch hub (front) and the pulley (the part that turns with the belt). As a rule, when that air gap is over .025" (or greater than the thickness of a typical business card), you may not be able to successfully engage the clutch all the time. The air gap will have to be adjusted.
Other reasons why the compressor clutch is not engaging could range from electrical and/or control problems to a faulty coil it self. Use caution when checking electrical circuits on some vehicles as improper procedures could damage on board computers and electronic components. If the compressor clutch is engaging and the A/C system is not blowing cool, the system will have to be diagnosed.
Depending on the pressure gauge readings, there could be problems with a restriction in the system (typically at the expansion valve) or with the compressor itself. Restrictions in the system typically cause both high and low pressures to be reduced or lower than expected. That’s because the restriction is blocking the supply of refrigerant to the compressor, so the compressor has nothing to pump. Additionally , the refrigerant remains in the condenser longer than normal and is then sub-cooled.
Alternatively, a faulty A/C compressor will generally cause low pressures to be higher than normal while the high pressures are lower than expected. Typically the cause is an internal valve problem. Broken or damaged valves in the compressor allow the higher pressures to ‘bleed back’ into the low pressure side. In short, the compressor can’t pump properly.
These are the most common problems encountered in auto .A/C service where systems have been recharged or ‘topped off’ and still do not blow properly. Whenever servicing an auto A/C system, you should follow the proper procedures for a full performance test to assure that all of the A/C components and related systems are checked and working properly.
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I flushed my system, but the orifice tube keeps getting clogged and stopped up with debris... What's happening?
This typically happens after there’s been a catastrophic compressor failure.
After installing the replacement compressor the A/C system performs perfectly for about 20 minutes. Then the pressures drop and the cooling stops and you realize you have another problem. After recovering the refrigerant, you remove the orifice tube to find that it’s plugged again!
What’s wrong?
The problem is that all the debris and contamination has not been removed. In most cases, the problem occurs because the A/C system wasn’t flushed properly. In so many cases, because proper procedures were not followed, debris and contamination is left in the A/C system and continues to cause problems. Flushing involves cleaning the entire system to remove debris and contamination. The proper process to flush and A/C system varies from car to car because of the specific system design. As an example, on A/C systems that include muffler assemblies (between the compressor and the condenser) those mufflers must be removed. They can be replaced with a new muffler, or they can be eliminated from the system. There is no way to flush or clean them successfully. If you left the original muffler in place, most likely the debris that was left in the muffler has been moved though the system to plug the orifice tube.
Likewise, new high efficiency condensers can pose problems when trying to restore the A/C system. Typically these condensers are manufactured with extremely small internal opening (or tubes) and they trap and hold a lot of debris that can not be removed by flushing. In addition to flushing the system properly, adding an in-line filter helps to protect the orifice tube and the compressor.
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If my a/c system is empty, does it need to be vacuumed? What does vacuuming down the system do, and why does it have to be done?
Yes, and there are a few reasons why.
Regardless of what work you have performed on the A/C system, if the refrigerant charge has been removed, the system must be vacuumed before recharging.
When the system’s charge is removed, there is nothing but air left in the system. If the system has been opened for service (ie.: replacing a compressor, accumulator or any other part) the problem can be compounded by having introduced moisture into the system. Just the moisture in the air (or as it’s commonly called, the humidity) can seriously effect the cooling performance of the A/C system.
With respect to air, you should understand that air is a ‘non condensable’ gas. Therefore, it can not be condensed into a liquid. Just the air left in charge hoses can cause enough of a problem when it’s induced into the system, and then gets ‘stuck’ at the top of the condenser. That will cause excessive high pressure readings on manifold gauges as well as cause poor cooling. If there is enough air, you could even have problems with pressures high enough to set off safety pressure release valves.
The humidity or moisture that can get into the system causes a completely different problem. When moisture and refrigerants mix, they create several different types of acids. Those acids are harmful to the A/C system components. When the acids form, they begin to corrode the aluminum components of the A/C system (like the evaporator and condenser), causing them to leak prematurely. In addition to that, the corrosion becomes a contaminant in the system. The contamination causes further problems by restricting the flow of refrigerant. When that happens, you run the risk of catastrophic compressor failure because of reduced cooling and lubrication.
Whenever recharging your A/C system, always be sure that you complete a full and proper vacuum. Vacuum should be (what’s considered) deep vacuum for at least 1/2 hour. The longer you maintain vacuum, the better. That’s because the vacuum doesn’t just remove the air. When you attain deep vacuum (about 500 microns) any moisture in the system will be boiled off. That will assure a dry system and the best possible A/C cooling performance.
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Do I need to flush the a/c system when replacing my compressor? Why is flushing the system so important?
Flushing or cleaning the A/C system depends on the overall condition of the system. Regardless of the fact that most vehicle manufacturers no longer support flushing, it is the only way that you can remove contamination and restore the system to peek cooling performance.
Vehicle manufacturers quit supporting flush procedures because of environmental issues and restrictions placed on CFC’s. R-11 was the original recommended flush compound, then followed by other refrigerants like 141-b. Because of environmental issues and the depletion of the earth’s ozone layer, most jurisdiction have serious restrictions on these chemicals.
Therefore, the vehicle manufacturers quit supporting flushing as a recommended procedure. Why don’t they support flushing with solvents? Because they have determined that a large percentage of their ‘so called’ warranty compressor replacement could be traced to flush solvents being left in the system. Most solvent quickly eliminate the lubrication qualities of the A/C compressor oil, and that leads to catastrophic failure very quickly.
On the other hand, professional A/C service technicians flush A/C systems as a regular part of their service. That’s because they use the proper procedures and solvents. Flushing requires that the system be dismantled and that you follow particular guidelines while using solvents that are developed and tested for this purpose.
When you do flush?
Whenever you can identified contamination in the system. That contamination could be dark compressor oil contaminated with moisture and other corrosive substances. Contaminated systems could also have clean oil but have particles of debris on the orifice tube. When you consider all the components in the A/C system that are ‘before’ or ‘up stream’ from the orifice tube, you should flush the system whenever you find any particles on the inlet screen of the orifice tube.
Whenever flushing, be sure to follow the approved methods that include dismantling the A/C system and using flush solvents that are designed to evaporate quickly while not leaving any residue. A clean A/C system will perform properly and provide excellent cooling performance for years.
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When converting an a/c system from R12 to R134A, how much refrigerant should I use?
When retrofitting an A/C system it is important to understand that there is probably a difference in the amount of refrigerant (freon) that is required to make the A/C system perform properly.
Typically, retrofitting is considered changing the refrigerant from R-12 to R-134a.
The standard rule for retrofitting an auto A/C system from R-12 to R-134a is that you start with about 80% of the total R-12 charge. As an example, if the R-12 system held 40 ounces of refrigerant (that’s 2-1/2 pounds - 40 divide by 16 (ounces) = 2.5 pounds) then you should start the charge of R-134a with 80% or 32 ounces (40 x .80 = 32).
Remember, it’s always a lot easier to continue to add refrigerant than it is to remove it. Also consider recording the amount of refrigerant that you finally end up using. It may be helpful if the system ever requires additional service in the future. You will be able to quickly recharge the system with the exact same amount that you used the first time. (Also keep in mind that retrofitting and A/C system involves several other factors besides the refrigerant itself. Be sure that you understand all the steps and proper procedures to successfully retrofit any auto A/C system on the road!)
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The compressor I just installed is noisy? Why so?
Auto A/C compressor noises can be a result of a number of different things. When replacing your A/C compressor, it’s important to remember that once installed and charged, the new compressor is (or should be) producing maximum output pressures.
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Which O-Rings should I use, and why are some of them different colors?
There are countless different colors of o-rings being sold today. The problem is that the color really doesn’t mean anything in particular about the o-ring. In fact, did you know that some suppliers actually painted o-rings different colors just to cause confusion?
The reality is that if you want a leak free A/C system, you have to use the proper o-rings made of the proper materials! Typically, o-rings are manufactured from a variety of different materials. The colors are really a manufacturer’s choice.
You must also consider that vehicle manufacturers frequently subcontract out various sections of the A/C system where that subcontracted manufacturer will use one color o-ring, while the rest of the A/C system uses another. As an example, a vehicle manufacturer may subcontract the evaporator and evaporator enclosure to another company.
Therefore, on vehicle assembly, the entire evaporator case and evaporator (along with related items like the accumulator, expansion valve and other parts) are all installed into the vehicle at one. The manufacturer of the evaporator case may use ‘yellow’ o-rings while the rest of the system uses ‘green’. What is important to understand is the material that the o-rings are made from.
Typically, in R-134a systems, o-rings are usually made from HNBR (Hydrogenated Nitrile Butadiene Rubber). This is the best all around o-ring because it withstands all the heat and temperature ranges that today’s auto A/C systems can produce.
Although there are other compounds of o-ring materials that will work in some sections (lower temperature areas) of the auto A/C system, in order to be sure, you should always use HNBR o-rings. Those are typically provided by the better A/C suppliers who understand that a few pennies more for the o-rings are well worth it when compared to the price of replacing the refrigerant (freon) all the time.
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